Here are some of the details of the design…


Here we see the coupling made from the standard house door hinge.  The sliding bolt to the lower left locks the swing bar in the cleared position.  The swinging bar is a bit above that; I have a portion of it protruding out so that it can be used as a handle for operating.  Plexiglas helps keep engines where they belong.


The hoops are made of brass wire and support the fitted cloth cover for Staging elevator storage.  They are removed and stored on hooks inside the chassis.  The toggle switches turn on/off track power to the levels.  I found that when operating with enough sound locomotives in staging that DCC system restart after a short circuit (like running a turnout switch on the layout) was not possible.  By turning the power off to both levels once a short occurs, one can gracefully bring back all the locomotives and not overload the system.  This is simple and works very well.  So much so, I plan on providing individual track toggles in the near future.  Also visible is a manipulating handle, one of two, to move the staging lateral motion (I also find using my knee on a chassis beam helps).


Under the upper level I have LED lighting to make seeing the lower level easier.  LED’s don’t create heat and last a long time.  As can be seen, I use tap-in or “suitcase” connectors for my wiring.


At the far end of the locomotive level, I have a manual turntable for turning the engines during re-staging.  It is made up of styrene shapes.  The brass key locks the rotation to any one of the five staging tracks.  It is turned by hand; a DC jack and plug is used to feed track power and act as a central pivot point.  Polarity is controlled via a Dual Frog-Juicer.  Plexiglas shields are used wherever possible for protection, although there is no space for them at the turnable sides due to the turntable being longer than the width of the level.